Loosen and remove the bolt with the distributor clamp and set them aside. Black goes to coil negative and orange goes to coil positive. You can send me mail at:. The pick-up coil is common to all applications, while the reluctor is different between 6 and 8 cylinder engines. Install the vacuum advance canister and then slide the reluctor back on the shaft. Mounting the ballast resistor is usually just a matter of removing the old stock resistor and putting the new one in its place. Mike also has experience in the amateur ranks of many of racing's sanctioning bodies.
If the total plunger movement reading exceeds. However, there was also a ballast resistor that I had to install before the ignition coil. Crank the engine up and disconnect and plug the vacuum advance line. You can also upgrade the fuel delivery system at the same time with the right control module. What to Do If the Wires Are too Short The wiring harnesses that come with electronic ignition control modules are usually pretty long and will reach where they need to go. You may need to drill a pilot hole for it. Now, slowly and incrementally turn the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise, listening to the engine as you go.
Be sure not to loose the washer above the nylon collar and the seal inside the housing. Install the mechanical advance weights on the main shaft, do not apply grease to the mechanical advance weights, a little oil on the slides is fine no grease. There are two bushings in the housing, they are pressed into the housing, they can be removed with punch and hammer or a press, once the new ones are installed they will have to be burnished or reamed to fit the shaft, once this is done you can install the shaft into the housing and pre-lubricate the shaft with a light axle type grease. The distributor remained basically the same except for the pickup coil that was mounted in place of the points and the reluctor that replaced the rotor. First as mentioned you want to check the shaft in the distributor to make sure the shaft or bushings are not worn.
Place the distributor in a vise in order to perform the side wear test. Align the vacuum advance bulb and rotor to that previously noted and push and wiggle the distributor into the block until fully seated. If you disconnect your vacuum advance and bring the engine up to an rpm where it will stop advancing this will give you your total mechanical advance. It was supposed to be the next great advancement in electronic ignition control. Unfortunately, it was plagued with over-complexity and the poor choice of attaching the electronics to the side of the air cleaner. Here are your basic wiring diagrams to show the wiring of a Chrysler Electronic System. Once you have everything cleaned you can check the condition of the parts to either replace them or reuse them.
This can mean popping a spring clip or turning a screw clip. When measuring the resistance across the two leads of the pick-up coil you should see a 150-900 ohm reading. Lubricate the felt pad in the reluctor sleeve with one drop of light engine oil and install the rotor. The single ballast resistor can be checked with your ohmmeter, it should read from. Upgrading or replacing an existing system When replacing a points type system, you will need the wiring harness that goes with the electronic control unit. Two with the cap off try to move the rotor from side to side and if there is any movement you will have to replace the shaft or the bushing one of the two. Now your Mopar should be reliably and electronically firing all your cylinders be it 6 or 8.
I installed a in the old Charger I had because everything I needed — distributor, ballast resistor, and control module, were included and it was and still is the easiest to install and cheapest kit on the market. There are two ways you can go about converting from points to electronic ignition — you can install a factory electronic system that replaces the factory points and distributor, or you can install an aftermarket high-performance system with parts and components from various manufacturers. You should also check for a ground on the pickup by placing one lead of the ohmmeter to one of the distributor wires and the other lead to the body of the distributor, it should read as an open circuit, if not you will have to replace it. The hardest part of converting to electronic ignition using a factory kit is finding a location for the control module. Wiggling and twisting may be required to help loosen it.
Either way depending on your budget it will add a few ponies to your Mopar. Cars of this era were largely equipped with what Chrysler originally called Electronic Lean Burn. Last, but not least you can now set the air gap for the pickup. With just a few tools, the factory system is ready to drive in just a couple hours. Quick and easy power to go.
Because Chrysler engineers chose to make the electronic ignition system a drop-in replacement when it was introduced, it is very easy to adapt it to earlier vehicles or those later vehicles that did not originally use it. As the distributor turns, these vanes pass very close to the core of the pickup coil. Also remember to bump up the size of the wire you use by one. Since then, a number have designed similar kits. The Chrysler Electronic Ignition System is very simple to install in your Mopar. Place the leads of your ohmmeter on each wire of the distributor, you should have a reading between 350 and 550 ohms, if not you will have to replace it.